The Colours of Hahoe Village
I guess when a place is known as the ‘capital of the Korean spirit’ it should be pretty obvious there would be a lot going on. National treasures, important folk material, and even an intangible cultural asset…Where to begin? Andong seems to have a corner on the market in the cultural history department, and as usual I wanted to do, and eat, everything. Unfortunately, all of the sites are spread out- dotting the countryside on the outskirts of the city making it virtually impossible (even with a car) to fit it all in a weekend. Jirye Art Village, Bongjeongsa Temple, the Dosan Confucian Academy, or a visit to the oldest and tallest pagoda? Oh gee whiz…so many choices. We weighed our options, and after a short debate decided on Hahoe Village (하회마을), a UNESCO World Heritage site to the west of the city. Indian summer was lingering through November and it seemed like the perfect backdrop for a wander through a preserved 600 year old settlement.
The many faces of Jangseung
The crowds were thick as we strolled through clusters of Jangseung. Traditionally, these totem poles were placed at the edges of villages and meant to ward off evil spirits. Some whimsical, some a bit frightening, all of them great camera subjects. Passing numerous souvenir shops (yet another reminder that we were at a major tourist destination) we made our way toward the Hahoedong Mask Museum. It was only 2,000₩ to enter, but what we found inside was pretty amazing.
Of the many things that Andong is known for, traditional masks may be the most recognizable icon. Every year near the end of September, the Andong Mask Festival is held, and Hahoe Village is home to performances of the Byeolsingut Mask Dance. The museum offered character descriptions, story backgrounds and bits of history to accompany an impressive collection of masks from Korea, as well as from around the world.
Not far from the museum was an information booth and ticket window signaling that we were closing in on the actual village.
Entrance fees were 3000₩ a piece, and we opted to walk the woodsy path near the river instead of hopping the shuttle bus up the hill. Hahoe-literally translated means ‘village enveloped by water’- is surrounded on three sides by the Nakdong River, forming an ‘S’shape. Settled 600 years ago during the Joseon Dynasty by the Ryu family, Hahoe Village is still home to over 200 people.
In spite of the crowds, it was surprisingly peaceful to wander through the narrow wall-lined streets and past various well preserved historic residences, the majority of which have been designated important folk material. Thatched roofed houses encircled tiled roofed houses. There was a strange feeling as worlds collided. Shiny cars parked in driveways, modern tools lying about, and brightly coloured children’s toys littered some of the yards. It was odd- it broke the illusion of stepping back into time, and mostly I had to wonder what it would be like to live inside such a busy museum. Zig-zagging through courtyards, peering through cracks in doors and stretching to see what lay behind and over walls, we caught glimpses of a man weaving a rice straw mat and spied strings of persimmons looking almost like carved wood, before we found ourselves at the base of Samsindang.
Persimmons, or wood?
The 600 year old zelkova tree is home to the goddess Samsin who is believed to influence pregnancy and child birth. Tiny slips of paper by the hundreds were tied to her branches- delicate wisps inscribed with wishes and prayers…
Samsindang – Ancient Zelkova tree
Buyondae Cliff
As it was getting late in the day, and since no visit to Andong should end without a taste of at least 1 of its signature dishes, we headed back to the square near the mask museum where there were a handful of restaurants to choose from. Originally, I had wanted to venture into Andong proper to seek out ‘Chicken Alley’- the supposed birthplace of jjim-dak (찜닭), but it was getting late, and we decided to forgo another drive, so we ducked into a cozy little spot with a potbellied stove spouting heavenly smelling wood smoke out into the air. Andong is known for other dishes beyond jjim-dak: salted, roasted mackerel (gan godeungeo 간 고등어); heotjesabap, and Andong soju are also considered regional specialties. The restaurant was crowded so we ordered up without much delay, and a few minutes later it was “holy jjim-dak!!” I had read somewhere that this was a favorite dish of students because it was cheap and abundant, but I really thought that the serving size might be somewhat adjusted when they saw that we were just two…Nope. A huge plate of cellophane noodles, sliced carrot and potato with knobs of chicken swimming in a brown sauce topped with sesame seed was set before us. So huge. Like enough for six people huge. Plus banchan.
Giant jjim-dak!
Food Porn
We did our best to tackle the delicious beast. The flavours were so good: a masterful balance of sweet with a pungent spicy kick that settled on the lips with a kind of delayed reaction as the nuttiness of the sesame poked through. It was, to say the least- addictive…but difficult to eat at the same time. The tiny noodles slipped around in the sauce, not unlike those crazed buckets of eels at the local markets, making them nearly impossible to clutch with chopsticks (unless you were my husband who had successfully devised a special crossing-twisting method) and the bits of chicken were not deboned and demanded the help of fingers. I tried glancing around the room for any sort of helpful hint as to how to best consume…but everyone was eating mackerel. Fail. I should have been better prepared. I should not have worn one of my favorite light coloured tops. I should have been willing to sacrifice my clothing to the food…But we pressed on- as carefully as we could- for at least an hour, until we had reached that state of blissful suffering known only as food coma. We slid our chairs back from the table totally satiated. Hahoe Village: we came, we saw, we were conquered.
Getting there:
From Waegwan it was about an hour drive…We took route 55 north, and exited toward 34 east. Veer left to continue onto 916, and follow the signs for Hahoe Village.
From Andong Station, take Bus 46 to Hahoe Village
*Bus 46 Info: 06:20-18:20, runs 10 times a day
Andong was one of our favorite trips so far in Korea. We stayed at a traditional hanok homestay last winter and loved every minute of it. The jjim-dalk there is to die for as well. We had it before, but the stuff in Andong is unmatched. Plus they bring enough out to feed a family of 5! These are gorgeous photos and it really makes me want to return… perhaps in spring when everything is blooming!
That is so cool that you did a homestay in Andong- I would love to do something like that! I have read good things about the overnight accommodations at the Jirye Art Village- is that where you were, by any chance?
I love that part of the country! We passed through Andong once on the way to Juwangsan National Park. Beautiful country! The jjimdak is to die for, I think. Thanks for sharing this. I’ll be passing it on as well:)
It is a really beautiful area…I will miss living in that part of the country! I read your post on Juwangsan and the apples, and wished I would have had the chance to make a visit before we moved further north. Maybe when the weather gets warm again- there is so much going on there it is worth the trek! (Thanks for sharing…I truly appreciate it!)
If there is one thing I regret about my time in Korea, it is missing the Andong mask festival. But it looks like there is plenty to see, even at a non-festival time. That tree is pretty awesome, If I was a goddess I would totally inhabit such a tree.
I am bummed about not making it to the mask festival this year…I am thinking it will have to be on my ‘to do list’ for next year!
Two months after leaving Korea, I have yet to get over how much there is to do in this awesome country! This looks like the type of area I would definitely find a ton of enjoyment in, even without the mask displays. Those features seem to make it even better.
Oh you are really making me miss Korean food. 찜닭 is one my favorites! Awesome that you got to have it in it’s birthplace. I’d be lying if I said I wasn’t jealous.
Great photos!
Hope to visit Andong, too, someday. I wonder if one day would be enough to wander around. Thanks for sharing this. Your photos are great! Maybe I should calender Andong next year; it’s the sister city of my hometown.
I would definitely recommend a visit to Andong! One day is not long enough to take in all of the interesting cultural sites, and you might want to look in to spending the night at the Jirye Art Village ( I have read some good things about that experience), and make it a weekend long trip…
NIce! These pictures are great and really make me want to visit, particularly during the mask festival! The photos of the man weaving the rice straw hat are perfect, he looks like a statue, seriously I had to do a double take!
I hope to make it back next year for the mask festival, too!
Hi Laura, what a beautiful post. I’ve never been to Korea, but I’ve eaten Korean food in London, which I am sure it’s not quite the same as the real thing! That bowl of food looks amazing and I enjoyed your description of it I could almost taste it through your words. thanks for sharing! Rosana
Thanks for the nice comments, Rosana!
Very lovely photos, I really appreciate it when people take time to take their photos…especially when they focus on the small details. Andong jjimdalk is the best! I have had various varieties of it, but I’m yet to taste the original, authentic Andong version! I’ve been wanting to take a trip up there but have never found the right time to do it. Perhaps I should aim for autumn, as your photos look lovely.
I bet spring would be really lovely, too!
Omg Jimdakk is my FAVORITE Korean dish, aside from fried chicken, of course. I’ve been dying to go to Andong; I keep hearing such wonderful things about this little town. I’ll have to pay a visit soon, but I’m a little nervous to go in the winter time. Great post!
I know, winter is already cramping my style…I guess it is time for skiing and ice skating instead of wandering around taking in the beautiful sites! Hopefully you will have a chance to see Andong when the weather warms up!
I have to agree with everyone, these photos are all so well done. And the jjimdak looks spectacular. As a girl with a small appetite, seeing that much food for just two of us, I might die. But good for you for powering through it! What a beautiful part of the country!
Ok, the sights may be beautiful… But that meal you had looks SPECTACULAR. I must have it.
Wow! Beautiful photos! The food looked amazing! Thanks for sharing, I loved it!
I never been to Andong before, But its seem that it was a really nice place and worth a visit.
Will go there if got time . Thanks for sharing
Wow, these photos are incredible! I’ve never seen anything like it in Korea. The masks are amazing.
Also, your food porn is so good and currently making me crave a big bowl of spicy Korea food! Haha.
Andong was weirdly one of the fist places I remember reading about other than Seoul before I came over here. Other than eating Andong Jjimdalk that’s about all I’ve heard about it since then 🙂
Absolutely stunning photos. I only learned about Andong recently, but it sounds like a must-go spot. Those carvings are beautiful – I was recently in Insadong and was watching someone carve one. It’s nice to see that kind of artistry still around.
Wonderful to be able to connect like this…. love your photos and hope to see a book down the road. Thank you for doing such a great job. Hugs!!
Thanks, Patti! Miss you guys…