Finally! The humidity has left the air and our nights and mornings have a refreshing chill to them. We have been waiting for days like these to put on our hiking boots and
take to one of the trails or peaks that are so abundant on this hilly peninsula. Outdoor sports are really popular here: especially hiking and biking. There is evidence of this all over: from the amazing bike trails criss crossing the country on the banks of the rivers, to the shop windows filled will day packs and moisture wicking shirts. Even in the rural city of Waegwan where we live, there is a hiking outfitter (or 2) on almost every block. I assure you, this is no exaggeration. Hiking apparel also seems to be a general fashion statement with the 50 and up crowd. Men and women strolling about town, decked out from head to toe in completely coordinated outfits. Not only are many folks of the general population ready to summit a peak at a moment’s notice, we have observed that it is not uncommon to find husband and wife urban hiking teams going about all matchy-matchy.
Yes…the matchy-matchy phenomenon. Picture vintage family ads from the 1950’s. Here in South Korea, this aesthetic is embraced by not only the older outdoorsy set, but the young fashionable couples as well.
Nicely coordinated outfits. At a glance you know they are together- and it doesn’t stop at the surface- matching undergarments are also ‘a thing.’ Intertwined with all of the other shops, you will see little storefronts with his and hers sets on display. Judging by the sheer number of lingerie filled windows, I am lead to conclude that this is a widespread practice. Difficult not to do a double take as you pass by matchy-matchy, but it is just as hard not to find it a little endearing.
Fashion aside, my husband and I decided to tackle Mt Apsan in Daegu for our first Korean hiking experience. Unfortunately (or fortunately, depending on who you ask), we were not decked out in the high style of the hill. Mount Apsan the “mountain in front (of the city)” is located within minutes of the downtown area, and therefore easily accessible by bus or subway/taxi/walking depending on how energetic you are feeling. Apsan is actually part of a trio of well connected peaks, all nestled within what is Daegu’s largest natural park. So, even if you are not up for a hike, the valley formed by the convergence of Sanseongsan, Daedeoksan, and Apsan is filled with lovely picnic spots.
We walked up past the bus lot and a small restaurant, and followed the path until we found ourselves in front of the large ‘you are here’ sign imprinted with various routes and bits of information. To our disappointment, the white building boasting maps was closed- so, empty handed we started off in the direction of ‘UP’ toward the cable car terminal as it looked like the most straight forward way to arrive at the top. Getting to the cable car was quick and easy- even in my flats. We passed Daeseong Temple, guarded by two little puppies, red chilies like gems drying in the sun not far from the foot of the Buddha statue in the tiny courtyard.
The terminal is a surprisingly modern structure with strong architectural lines and signs in both English and Hangul. Roundtrip to the top and back 9000won, or 7000 for quick omni-directional travel.
Not far from the base of the cable car, a map informed us that there are 18 Buddhist temples amongst the hills and valleys of Apsan Park along with 7 mineral springs and a hermitage. We sat down for a few minutes before pressing on.
Nearby, a group of men were working out on gym equipment (a not uncommon sight in this part of the world; seemingly random outcroppings of public gymnasiums pop up in some surprising places). A man in a white bandanna was hula hooping. Serious dedication to physical fitness was going on all around!
In July we had visited the park, when temperatures were pushing 100, and had enjoyed the view and the ease provided by the cable car. Since the weather has been cooling and we have been itching for a hike, here was our chance to start autumn off on the right foot (ha, ha…I know) flats and all.
Another temple appeared in a clearing off to the right- this one a bit larger than the first with a few people bustling about, a row of kimchi pots nearby. Pressing on…I had pretty much assumed that this would be a simple hike- more of an uphill walk in the woods that led to a peak and a great view of Daegu. The 70 year olds whizzing up and down not even breaking a sweat made me think that I was correct in coming to this conclusion. Reality: some (read quite a few) parts of the trail were quite steep- and although much of it was groomed to include those never ending stairs that make your calves burn, there were stretches that were quite rocky. Hint: wear proper footwear.
Signs along the way were slightly confusing, and we found ourselves questioning more than once whether or not we were actually on the path that led to the observation deck, restaurant, and cable car back down. Then, just as our stomachs began to consume themselves and right before my feet went into revolt we happened on a familiar and welcome sight- the wide open door of the little restaurant with a view.
Lunch time had come and gone, but that was no reason not to take a seat near one of the windows and look down into the valley where the buildings of Daegu stretch into the distance: hazy and white washed, meeting up with the blue ombre of the mountains at the horizon. We ordered a bowl of manduguk to share- it seemed like the perfect dish to revitalize our hiker’s bodies.
Big pork and veggie stuffed dumplings in a flavorful broth with green onions, sliced rice cake and an egg. The banchan that accompanied were spicy enough to awaken the senses and put a spring back in our step- kkakdugi and lightly pickled gochu tossed with a bit of doenjang. Satiated but not too full, we wandered over to the observation deck to take in the view before jumping on the cable car for a one way ride down.
How to get there…
By bus: From Anjirang Station (#125 on the red line) take exit 3 and hop bus #410. This will drop you off in the parking lot inside of Apsan Park. A shortish walk to the cable car terminal or your choice of hiking path.
Or:
Get off on the Hyeonchungo stop (#126, red line) and hop a cab for a short ride up the hill to the main parking lot…Or, if you are feeling energetic – take exit 3 out of the subway and walk until you see a sign for Jayu-gil (the first right) follow this for a while (it is a bit of a hill). Continue onto Keungol-gil. You will cross Apsansunhwan-ro, and shortly after should end up in the bus parking lot.
Well written post! Thanks for the tips especially on how to get there. Your photos are awesome too! Hope you can visit our newly launched travel blog 🙂
So glad you enjoyed the post! Thank you so much for the nice comments… I’ll be sure to check out your blog. Hope you check in again soon…
Love all photos!